Chain conditions

Many chain problems will cause riding to become more difficult, and sometimes more dangerous.

Chain stretching is inevitable, and it is when the chain stretches. This means it no longer meshes perfectly onto the cogs. A result of chain stretch is chain skipping, where the chain jumps over a cog tooth, and misses a link. Chain stretch can be measured using a measuring gauge specifically designed for measuring chains.

Dirt will get stuck onto the chain, cogs, and most other moving parts of the bike. These small particles will accelerate the wear over time, causing chain stretch (as mentioned above), and worn out components. This can be easily prevented by cleaning the bike when necessary.

Sometimes, there will be stiff links when you have just put the chain on, or when it is very old. A stiff link is one that does not flex properly, causing it to not mesh onto the cogs properly. It is easy to identify a stiff link by watching it go around the cogs, or by feeling the chain as it cycles through. Sometimes, all that is needed is some cleaning and lubrication. In some more extreme cases, you may need to replaced the entire chain.

Replacing spokes

Replacing a broken spoke is simple, and here are the easy steps to show you how.

Stuff you'll be needing:
- A new spoke
- Spoke wrench
- Basic tools

(1) Firstly, remove the wheel from your bike and take of the tire and tube. If you are unsure how to do this, refer to the article on how to do so. Then, peel off the tape from inside the rim.

(2) Your new spoke should come with a nipple. so unscrew the old nipple, and put the new one in.

(3) With your new spoke, insert it into the hub flange, and position it so that it matches all the other spokes (same weaving pattern).

(4) Thread the spoke into the nipple, and adjust the tension using a spoke wrench.

(5) Put the tape, tube and tire back on, and mount onto your bike.

(6) The spoke tensions may not be even, and you may want to true your wheel.

Bunny hopping

Here is a quick tutorial we've found that's good for beginners learning how to bunny hop. Note, we did not make this.

Tire tips

It is essential to have good tires on your bike, as they can make a big difference on your riding.

- Types of flat tires

Pinch flats occur when you are riding on low pressure, and run over an obstacle. The pressure forces the tube to pinch between the rim and the tire. The only way to prevent this is to use more pressure.

Puncture flats occur when your ride over a sharp object, and it penetrates your tires. This can be prevented by using thick tires, or a tire lining. However, these will add weight.

- Tire composition

Different tires are made with different materials. Some tires use a harder compound, and these will have a longer life, but less grip. Soft tires are the opposite, they wear out faster, but grip more.

- Direction

Some tires work better on a specific direction. They are more efficient when they are installed the correct way. A marking on the tire will indicate the direction, such as an arrow.

- Width

Tires come in a range of different widths, generally from 1.5 inches to 2.5 inches, although there are thicker tires for downhill riding. Thicker tires will inevitably weight more, and have more resistance, but they are able to grip the terrain better.

Choosing new tires

There are many different types of tires, for different types of riding and terrain. Here's a quick guide on choosing the type that's right for you.

(1) Knobby

These are the standard Mountain Biking tires. They are popular because they provide grip on almost all off road surfaces. They come with different sized knobs; the larger the knobs, the more grip, but less traction on road. They will also make a little more noise than smooth tires

(2) Hybrid

These tires do not feature knobs, instead, they resemble car tires. They are good for smooth surfaces like roads. They can be used on the trails too, however they will have trouble gripping onto loose rubble surfaces. These are good for people who ride both on and off road. Some hybrid tires feature knobs on the side, so when riding off road, they grip uneven surfaces, but don't touch the ground on road.

(3) Slick

These tires have no treads, and are designed primarily for road riding. They can still be used off road, but due to the design, it will be more difficult to grip uneven surfaces. They are also dangerous on wet surfaces, as they will slide around.

Seat adjustments

Making sure that your seat is adjusted correctly will not only make riding more comfortable, but more efficient.

Seat height
- The seat should be low enough so that you can just touch the ground with both feet
- At the bottom of your stroke, you leg should be straight, bent slightly, not locked

Rail adjustment
- This is a comfort adjustment, give different positions a try
- The further forward your seat is, the more your front wheel grips the ground

Tilt
- Once again, this is a comfort adjustment, depending on whether you prefer the seat tilted backwards or forwards
- Make sure you adjust the seat so that you are seated comfortably

Types of Pedals

There are two main categories of pedals, cage and clipless. Cage pedals are the basic pedals that are found on most bikes. Clipless pedals are pedals which require shoes with cleats, so that they click on.

Clipless pedals are more expensive, but they make riding more efficient. However, if the bike crashes, more injury is sustained because you are still connected to the bike. They also require a fair bit more maintenance.

An Allen wrench is required for installing and removing pedals. Remember, that the left pedal goes on counterclockwise, opposite to the normal screwing direction.

You will need to lubricate clipless pedals, to ensure you can engage into the pedals easily. A bike store will be able to help you choose which type of pedal is right for you.

The Basics of MTB

For anyone new to mountain bike riding, this section is for you.

(1) Downhill sections

Stand up on the pedals with knees slightly bent. Make sure the pedals are level. Move your butt behind the seat, and squeeze the saddle between your thighs, as this will help you increase traction on the rear wheel. Crouch your body down low to lower the center of gravity.

(2) Uphill climbs

Remain seated, as this will help keep traction on the rear wheel. Lean as far forward as possible, so that your chin is almost touching the handlebars. Stay on a low gear, and pedal quickly and evenly, not in bursts. This will help the rear tire grip onto the ground.

(3) Brakes

Make sure you know which lever controls the rear wheel. When you are going downhill, use both brakes, but make sure to apply the rear brakes first. Also, when traveling at high speeds, do not clamp on the brakes hard, rather apply them gently and evenly.

(4) Gear Shifting

The shifter on the left controls the 3 main speeds. Gear 1 is slowest, but gives you the most power for hill climbs. Gear 3 is fastest, but is hard to pedal. Use this on flat or downhill sections. Gear 2 is in between, and should be used for normal riding. The shifter on the right allows you to control the speeds more precisely. Remember, the lower the number, the more power, but less speed. Make sure you shift gears in advance, not half way through a climb. Shifting under the pressure of a hill climb causes damage to the bike.

(5) Rests

Everyone gets worn out after a long challenging hill climb, and it is usually normal to feel a bit dizzy as you get off the bike for a rest. This is because there is less oxygen going to the brain. Remember to only take rests at the top of a climb, not half way through it. One reason for this is because you will find it difficult to get it moving again. It also means it takes you longer to get back on the bike, because of the challenging hill ahead. However, if you take a rest at the top of a hill, you can look forward to the downhill ride coming up.

Enjoy your ride, and have fun!

Tire pressures

Before each and every ride, you will need to check up on the pressure of your tires. Here are a few simple guidelines.

You tires should have 35-50 PSI pressure in them, depending on what you prefer. The higher the pressure, the less resistance, but also less traction. The lower the pressure, the more resistance, but more traction.

Make sure you always carry an appropriate pump with you when riding.

Mountain Bike Maintenance is Changing

Over the coming weeks, Mountain Bike Maintenance will keep you updated with more stuff, including riding tips and tricks.

Handlebar Grips

Over time, the grips on your bike will wear out. For safety, it is essential that you replace them. Here are a few simple tips that will make that easier.

(1) Removing the grips

There are several ways to take the grips off. First you will need to take of any handlebar ends or caps which may stop you from removing the grips.

If you don't plan on using them again, you can cut them open with a knife. Otherwise, roll them back a bit, and squirt some soapy water in. Twist it a bit and slide it off. If it does not come off, just add more soap and work it a bit more.

(2) Installing the grips

Make sure that your new grips will fit the handle bars, if not, cut them to size. Slightly wet the entire inside of the grip. Slide it onto the handlebars, and twist until it is fully inserted.

Tuning the Front Derailleur

Here is the second section on derailleur tuning - Front Derailleurs.

Stuff you'll be needing
- Screwdrivers
- Hex Tools

(1) Mounting Adjustments

Position the angle of the derailleur on the front tube, so that it is parallel with the chain.

(2) Limiters

The limiters stop the chain from jumping off the end of the cogs. The 'H' screw changes the limits on the big cog, and the 'S' screw changes the limits on the small cog. Tune in quarter turn increments, and tune it so that the chain jumps onto the cogs easily without popping off the edge or grinding against the derailleur.

(3) Cable Tension

Using the cable fixing bolt on the derailleur, you can tune the tension of the cable. If the cable is too tight, the chain will not be able to shift to the inner cog. The cable needs to be tight, so that it responds as soon as you start shifting.

(4) Final checks

Lubricate the moving parts, and go for a test ride, to make sure everything is working as intended.

Tuning the Rear Derailleur

If your derailleur is not tuned properly, shifting will be difficult, and may cause damage to chain and cogs. First we will cover the rear derailleur.

Stuff you'll be needing:
- Screwdrivers
- Hex tools

(1) Lubricate your chain, and ensure that the pedals and wheels can spin, then set up your bike upside down

(2) Tension

There is a tension adjuster on the derailleur itself or the shifter, which allows you to tune the cable tension. Experiment with it, until the derailleur aligns with the cogs. Remember to turn the pedals after every adjustment.

(3) Limiters

The two limit adjusting screws on the derailleur prevent the chain from slipping off the end of the cassette. The 'L' limits the large cog, which 'H' limits the small cog. Adjusting the limiters will only affect the lowest and highest gear. Twist the screws until the derailleur matches well with the cog, and the chain is not passed through at an angle.

(4) Test ride, to make sure you have tuned your bike properly, and everything is operational

Brake Cable Lubrication

Lubricating your brake cables will make braking a lot smoother. You know you need to lubricate your brakes when they become hard to use.

Stuff you'll be needing:
- Lubricating Oil

(1) Detach the cable at the brake end, by loosening the hex nut

(2) Slide the cable sleeve off the cable, exposing the cable

(3) Lubricate the entire length of the cable with oil, making sure all of it is coated

(4) Put everything back together, by sliding the sleeve back on and attaching the cable to brakes

(5) Tune your brakes to ensure they are fully functional

Fork Suspension Tuning

Tuning your suspension to match your body will make riding more comfortable.

(1) Sag Adjustment

The sag is how much your fork compresses when you are seated on your bike. Sit on your bike with your feet off the ground, and measure how far the fork compresses. The sag should be 25% of the total travel. If you have 100mm travel, it means 25mm of sag. If the fork uses a spring, there will be a knob at the top to adjust the tension. On an air fork, you will need to adjust the pressure.

(2) Rebound Damping

Rebound damping is how fast the fork returns to its fully extended state after it is compressed. Start by fully reducing the damping knob, and test ride your bike. It may bounce a bit, so tighten it until it feels right.

3) Compression damping

Compression damping is how fast the fork compresses when it takes a hit. When riding on smooth surfaces, compression damping is not required. For more bumpy rocky trails, your fork may bottom out. This means you will need to increase the compression damping. However, if it is too bumpy, you may need to reduce the compression damping.

4) Test

Go for a quick ride, and make sure you are comfortable with the new settings.

Pre-ride checks

Here is a few simple things you can check before each ride, to ensure you have a safe and smooth trip.

(1) Make sure your chain is clean and free of any particles of dirt

(2) Inflate tires to appropriate pressure

(3) Check that both brakes work, by holding onto the brakes and pushing your bike forward - the bike should not move, or skid, but the wheel should not turn

(4) Check for any loose allen heads or nuts, and tighten them

(5) Spin the wheels and make sure they spin freely, and there are not obstructions

(6) Have a quick pedal around wherever you are, testing that all systems are functioning

(7) Check that you are carrying the appropriate tools, pumps and puncture kits

Enjoy your ride!

Changing a flat tire

At some stage, your tire will go flat. Changing the tire is quick and easy, and an essential skill.

Stuff you'll be needing:
- Tire patch kit (patches, abrasive patch, glue, levers)
- Pump
- New tube (if replacing entire tube)

(1) Check that there really is a puncture, by pumping up the tire and listening for leaks

(2) Turn the bike upside down, by resting it on the seat and handlebars

(3) Loosen the brake cables, and open the quick release mechanism

(4) The front wheel should just pop out; with the back wheel, you will need to lift the wheel out of the chain and around the derailleur

(5) Remove the tire from the rims by lifting it out with the tire levers - Lever one section of the tire out with one lever, and lock it onto the spokes

(6) With the other lever, run it around the tire to pop the rest of it off

(7) Check the inside of the tire for objects which may have caused the puncture, and remove them

(8) Locate the hole, and rough up the area around the hole with the abrasive patch, or some sandpaper

(9) Rub some glue onto the area around the hole, and stick the patch on

(10) Wait a few minutes for the glue to dry, and place the tube back inside the rim

(11) Put the tire back on, and pump it up, checking that it is no longer leaking

(12) If patching the hole does not solve the problem, replace the entire tube, they are very cheap anyway

Lubricating a bike chain

A lubed chain makes riding smoother and more efficient. Here's how to lubricate your chain.

Stuff you'll be needing:
- Rag
- Bike chain lubrication

(1) Turn the bike upside down, so that it balances on the handlebars and seat - the cranks and wheels should be able to spin freely

(2) Lightly wrap the rag around the chain, so that the chain can still slide through

(3) Slowly turn the pedals, so that the chain is cleaned as it passes through the rag, and repeat until most grime is wiped off the chain

(4) Apply the lubrication by dropping a small amount on each link, by turning the pedals and allowing the lubrication the drip onto the chain

(5) Once the chain is completely coated, use the rag to wipe off the excess

Removing a bike chain

If you want to replace your chain, your will need to know how to remove it from your bike. Here is how.

Stuff you'll be needing
- Chain tool

(1) Lean the bike against a wall, or place it on a repair stand

(2) Insert the chain tool into the chain, and make sure that the tool's pin aligns with the pin of the chain

(3) Turn the crank of the tool, so that it pushes out the pin

(4) Push the pin out, unscrew the tool, and disconnect the chain

(5) Unwind the chain from the gears

To put the chain back on:

(1) Thread the chain through the gears

(2) Place both ends of the chain in the chain tool

(3) Insert the pin into the hole, and push it in with the tool

(4) Make sure that the pin is flush on both sides of the chain

Cleaning your bike chain

Lets start with the basics. After riding anywhere, your chain is bound to have attracted dust. Here is how to clean it.

Stuff you'll be needing:
- Containers
- Rags
- Cleaning brushes
- Solvents/Degreaser

(1) Remove the chain (coming soon)

(2) Take the chain outside somewhere well ventilated

(3) Place the chain in a container, and fill the container up with the degreasing solvent so that it just covers all of the chain

(4) After two minutes, take the chain out and scrub with a brush, so that most of the grime is brushed off

(5) Wipe dry with a rag, and put the chain back on your bike

(6) Lubricate the chain (coming soon)